packing4two

During our travels through Georgia, we stopped at the impressive Ananuri castle complex on the Aragvi River in Dusheti Municipality, about 72 kilometers from Tbilisi.

Perched dramatically above what is now the Zhinvali Reservoir, Ananuri served as the seat of the eristavis (Dukes) of Aragvi. This powerful feudal dynasty ruled the area from the 13th century. The complex has witnessed numerous battles throughout its tumultuous history.

We took a 20-minute walk around and inside the complex, which consists of two castles joined by a crenellated curtain wall. The upper fortification with its sizeable square tower (Sheupovari) remains well-preserved and was once the last line of defense for the Aragvi rulers against their rivals. The lower fortification with its round tower is mostly in ruins but still adds to the site's medieval character.

We explored the complex's churches, though the older Church of the Virgin (17th century) was closed during our visit. The larger Church of the Mother of God (1689) impressed us with its central dome, carved entrances, and intricate grapevine cross, despite many of its frescoes being destroyed in an 18th-century fire.

I was fascinated by the complex's tragic history, especially the 1739 attack when rival forces set Ananuri on fire and massacred the Aragvi clan. Even more intriguing was the legend of Ana from Nuri, who reportedly sacrificed her life rather than reveal the location of a secret tunnel that supplied the castle during sieges—hence the name "Ananuri."

The site offers basic amenities for tourists, including toilets and merchant stalls selling souvenirs and refreshments.

In 2007, this architectural treasure was placed on the tentative list for inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage Site program - a well-deserved recognition of its historical and cultural significance.

Ananuri offers a perfect glimpse into Georgia's feudal past and is definitely worth a visit for anyone traveling along the Georgian Military Road.