packing4two

Our journey to Belfast began with a smooth arrival at Belfast International Airport in the early afternoon. The A300 bus service was an excellent choice for reaching the city center, offering comfortable transportation that dropped us just a few minutes' walk from our hotel. The 40-minute journey cost £9 per ticket, and I was impressed by the convenience of the public transportation system. You can purchase tickets through various means: user-friendly mobile apps, ticket machines at the stations, or directly from the bus driver.

Like many first-time visitors to Northern Ireland, we made the rookie mistake of arriving without umbrellas. The gentle but persistent Irish rain quickly taught us the error of our ways, and one of our first stops in the city center was to purchase proper rain protection. As we would soon learn, umbrellas aren't just accessories in Belfast – they're essential everyday companions.

We checked into the welcoming IBIS Belfast Centre hotel, where the friendly staff immediately made us feel at home. The hotel's central location proved perfect for exploring the city on foot. We promptly headed to City Hall, an imposing Baroque Revival building that is a testament to Belfast's grand architectural heritage, to join the Belfast Free Walking Tours (easily spotted by their yellow umbrellas).

This two-hour tour proved to be an invaluable introduction to the city. Our guide provided a compelling overview of Ireland's challenging history, covering the devastating potato famine that reshaped Irish society, the political upheavals that followed, and the "Troubles" - three decades of violent conflict that profoundly shaped daily life in Belfast. The city's streets themselves tell these stories, with historic buildings bearing witness to both tragedy and resilience.

Europa Hotel - 33 bombs during the "Troubles" times

The evening's main event was a Cyndi Lauper concert, which turned out to be a highlight of our trip. While my partner Liat had been a longtime fan since her teenage years, the performance exceeded all our expectations. Lauper proved herself an incredible performer, even at 71, and a true cultural icon. Her voice retained its distinctive power and range, and her stage presence was magnetic. As someone who knew little of her music beforehand, I became a fan by the show's end.

Our second day began with a self-guided walk through the Shankill and Falls neighborhoods, where Belfast's complex history is written on its walls - literally. The contrast between Unionist and Republican areas is immediately apparent, manifesting in the murals, monuments, and even the names of streets and businesses. We were disappointed to see the distorted portrayal of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict in the Republican areas, reflecting the historical connection between the IRA and the PLO.

The atmosphere shifted dramatically as we went to the Botanic Gardens near Queen's University. While Shankill and Falls appeared quiet with just a few open shops, the university area buzzed with youthful energy. The Victorian-era Botanic Gardens, though not extensive, offered a delightful free urban escape. The historic Palm House provided a warm, tropical retreat despite the cold weather.

We then visited Belfast City Hall, where a free 16-room exhibition attempts to showcase different aspects of Belfast's history and culture. While each room offers interesting glimpses into various facets of the city, the exhibition feels somewhat fragmented rather than flowing into a cohesive narrative. However, this doesn't diminish the value of individual exhibits. I was particularly captivated by the room dedicated to Belfast's distinctive language and dialect, which offers fascinating insights into local pronunciations and syntax.

Our exploration led us to Victoria Square, a modern shopping center that perfectly balances contemporary retail with architectural flair. The glass dome at the top level offers a panoramic view of Belfast, though the city's characteristic overcast weather limited visibility during our visit.

On our final morning, we headed to the Titanic Belfast in the regenerated Titanic Quarter. The modern building sits 100 meters from where the original ship was built, and its angular design makes it impossible to miss. What's fascinating about this museum is how Belfast has approached the Titanic narrative. While most people know only about the tragic end of the ship, Belfast chose to tell the complete story, beginning with the city's industrial heritage. They've managed to transform what could have been just a story of disaster into a broader narrative about Belfast's maritime heritage, industrial capabilities, and the thousands of skilled workers who built the ship.

The exhibition spans nine galleries and takes visitors through every aspect of the Titanic's story. Sometimes, the information can feel a bit overwhelming, but the quality of the exhibitions makes it worthwhile. We also visited the SS Nomadic, docked nearby, which served as the Titanic's tender vessel and offers a tangible connection to the era.

After our Titanic experience, we returned to our hotel to collect our luggage and caught the bus back to the airport, concluding our 48 hours in Belfast. Despite the persistent rain, we left with a deeper appreciation for this complex city that continues to reinvent itself while honoring its past.